My first update from the Republic of South Sudan
16 May 2011 patrol to SANGUA. When planning patrols for this month (which is one of my jobs here -- planning locations, dates, and patrol composition), I did not realize that the original patrol date fell on a national holiday. Once our language assistant explained this, we decided to postpone our patrol to June as a show of good faith toward the population; no work on their day of celebration. Considering some of the recent bad press concerning alleged UN support to LRA (all part of an unfounded smear campaign), we felt this was the most prudent option. In town they held a large gathering to celebrate, with many festivities occurring in Freedom Square.
18 May 2011 patrol to LI RANGU, 37 km from YAMBIO and a 45 min drive. I was patrol leader, which meant that I was able to enjoy the ride and interact with the local population by waving and smiling as we went by. This is one of my favourite moments on patrol, and much more difficult to achieve while driving, especially on some of the roads here! LI RANGU continues to hold a special place in my heart and mind, though it's difficult to pinpoint exactly why. It is one of the more successful, safe, thriving communities that we have the pleasure of visiting, and this hopeful air is emotionally refreshing at times.
20 May 2011 patrol to NABIAPAI, 33 km from YAMBIO and a 130 min drive. I was communicator for a five vehicle convoy, as we had numerous UN civilians join us. During the drive, I was able to take many photos and note positive road and bridge construction along the route -- great signs of progress! As usual, it took quite awhile to reach our destination as the road was challenging with its abundant large ponds and interesting obstacles; you can't pay for this type of fun! We passed GANGURA without incident (no denial of Freedom of Movement) and eventually arrived in NABIAPAI. The market was completely empty, a possible indication of trouble. After a brief investigation we determined that the market day had been changed to Saturday. Apparently, town elders had found that people would start to drink the night before market day and continue for the whole weekend. So, all was "secure". We met with the local town leadership on the Sudanese side of the market first. I subsequently crossed the border to the DRC side of the market and met with the Congolese Army troops. We had an informative dialogue in French, where they expressed their concern, empathy, and commitment to helping their Zandi (tribe) brothers and sisters regardless of the concept of national borders. Unfortunately, there are no SPLA (Sudan People’s Liberation Army) troops in this area with whom the Congolese Army can work. The closest SPLA troops are an hour up the road. However, the UPDF (Uganda People’s Defence Force) is present and mobile.
22 - 26 May 2011 I was very sick and pulled off the long duration patrol (LDP) to TAMBURA. I'm not sure what happened. It may have been a bad encounter with some pork, or any one of a multitude of other daily dangers. Regardless, the BANBAT (Bangladesh Battalion) doctor listened to my stomach through three layers of clothes (he wouldn't let me take off my jacket) and ordered me to bed for three days. I almost went crazy! But, since he threatened me with the prospect that if my system was weakened I could more easily contract malaria, I stayed in bed! On that note, there have been a few cases of malaria here so far, but due to a less intense rainy season, outbreaks of malaria are not as bad yet as in previous years.
As noted above, the rains have come late and been sparse. This is very negative for the people here who depend on months of intense rain to cultivate their crops and sustain themselves. Many people are hungry, and as more IDPs (internally displaced people), refugees, and returnees are displaced, the situation becomes even more critical. Mango season is over, so the people no longer have this fresh food source falling from the trees. They are hungrier, but at least some of the issues that come with only eating mangoes are no longer present.
30 May - 20 June 2011 I was on my second CTO, as you have read about in my past two updates!
22 June 2011 patrol to RINGASI, 55 km from YAMBIO and a 70 min drive. I was patrol leader of a three vehicle convoy as UNPOL decided to join us. We had no National Monitors with us. The main concern of the local leadership was the food shortage caused by the lack of rain. They requested food aid for themselves and the many IDPs and refugees in their area. We had a discussion about registering IDPs and refugees, stressing the importance of ensuring this is done. However, they expressed their frustration, as last year they had given a registration list to an agency and had yet to receive aid for those people. They stated that they have difficulty managing their displaced population's expectations, as once they submit their names they expected to receive support. Sadly, this is just not the case. The process takes much longer and frustrations abound for all involved. They are also completely cut off from the outside world, communication wise. They use bike messengers to pass information as there is no cell or radio network. This is a common problem for a large part of our AOR (area of responsibility) and one that is completely outside of our mandate, but we sit, listen, take notes, and report the information. That is all we can do.
24 June 2011 patrol to MADEBE, 83 km from YAMBIO and a 100 min drive along a very nice road (by South Sudan standards). The purpose of this link-up patrol was to meet with a team from our neighbouring team site, MARIDI, and exchange information on the current situation in our respective AORs. It was a gorgeous day for a drive. I was driver of vehicle 1 so I determined the speed at which the convoy travelled, within our regulations of course ;). It was freeing to finally drive in fourth gear and experience the countryside at a different speed! An hour and a half to get there, a ten minute meeting with some tea and cookies, a photo shoot and handing out of suckers to kids, and we were off on our drive back to YAMBIO. Perfect!
Showering in South Sudan is an interesting, stressful experience. How often have you turned off the water between rinsing different parts of your body to conserve it? Or strategically picked which area of your body most needed to be cleaned and started there just in case the water suddenly stopped? Or had to rinse off your feet once you were out of the shower because the water drain was broken and suddenly you were showering in a bathtub full of soap, dirt, and bugs? Also, I am still not used to the routine extreme water temperature variations. All in all, it is still better than no water! Privacy is a completely foreign concept as people continuously enter the bathroom and engage you in conversation while often leaving the door wide open. Recently, I also had the new, absolutely hilarious experience of using a field shower. The pleasure of washing your body with dirty water cannot be overstated; sometimes I wonder if I am cleaner before I begin to wash! Honestly, I am thankful to have working showers; even if they are often full of huge bugs that bounce off of your body while you are trying to clean it -- quite a disturbing sensation with closed eyes!
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