Sudan Update 12

CTO 2 update part 1! The first week of my vacation was spent in Ethiopia and I absolutely loved it! I was pleasantly surprised by the laid back, positive vibe of this country and her ultra friendly and helpful people! It was truly a beautiful experience which I'd like to now share with you. 

I began my time in the historically rich north of the country, in a small town called Aksum or Axum, where the first African Catholic Church was constructed.

Surprisingly much of the area has still not been excavated, but what they have uncovered to date is truly remarkable.

The legend, history, and tranquility of this small town make it an excellent jump off point for an Ethiopian discovery adventure!







While I was there I hired an excellent guide, who quickly became a friend, and we spent all my time in town together.

He took me to meet his whole family and we shared many delicious meals and cups of outstanding coffee!

I felt completely at home, relaxed, and safe during my visit.

Ethiopian food is amazing! You eat with your hands and a bread called injera, which you use to pick up the meat/stew/paste that you have ordered.






It is an intimate culinary experience with one plate often shared by many. As you can imagine, certain etiquette applies! There was also an abundance of delicious fresh juices! My favourite was a mix of half avocado and half mango - thick, filling, refreshing, and oh so good!

I must admit that the local beer, St. George, cannot compete with Ugandan Belle or Tusker!

Also, the locally made honey wine, Tij, doesn’t touch our Canadian ice wine!

As it was low season, I was often the only white person in town and frequently the only tourist visiting a site.







It was an unreal experience for me, but a hard time for the town. Ethiopians are so happy with their government, and for the little that I saw, I can understand why. People have access to food, free education (undergrad and college), and personal security and safety.

The rainy season had not yet begun (the weeks to come would devastatingly reveal to the world the tragic extent of the drought this year) and the landscape was correspondingly depressing, brown, and dusty.

Next, I was off to the home of the ancient rock-hewn churches, Lalibela.

This gorgeous mountainside village is home to three different types of churches built downward through the rocky terrain.














You cannot help but marvel at the majestic labour of love and devotion as you gaze upon the intricate levels of detail chiseled and painted into the rock sides, lasting testaments of their love for God.

Ethiopians are overwhelmingly a highly devote Orthodox Christian society.

You become instantly engulfed in the serenity of the atmosphere everywhere here.

You feel immediately at home as the locals flood to greet you and invite you into their houses.







They are exceedingly polite rather than pushy.

They live in two storey tukuls in the old town,

and in the new town they live in houses constructed with corrugated metal roofs.








All the children attend school and every Saturday villagers walk uphill for hours to attend the large, social market day.

 

My guide in Lalibela was a young, proud 22 year old man who lived in his mom's housing compound. He brought me home to show off his room and his mom promptly gave me a huge hug and invited me for injera!

That evening we went out to a traditional bar and listened to live music while dancing the night away!








It was the second time that I had the chance to go dancing in Ethiopia - the neck and shoulder movements take quite a bit of coordination - but I can't wait for my next opportunity to try it out!

 

Then I was off to Addis Ababa, my last stop in this wonderful country, and the ancient gateway to magical lands. This modern African city with its vehicular chaos and paradoxical society did not disappoint.



A huge intersection in Addis Ababa. It was the only time that
the cars were actually inbetween the lines, worthy of a picture!



It truly amazes me that there are not more accidents as each vehicle straddles the lines, completely disregards the use of signals, and swerves in front of each other seemingly attempting to duplicate bumper car rides at the amusement park.



The Ethiopian version of Starbucks?!



It is a city very much alive and relatively clean, with an odd feeling of safety and a moderate level of hustle and bustle. It is home to many university and college students, diplomats, and government officials who live alongside rows of slums and numerous street beggars.

 

While I was there I visited the National Museum to see Lucy, the oldest complete human skeleton, 3.2 million years old.

There were many school groups there during my visit; I think I was more interesting to the children then the exhibits! They each wanted to wave, smile shyly, practice their English, and shake my hand.




The balance of my day was spent at the spa. Moroccan steam baths are not for the timid or self conscious! Then I had a manicure, pedicure, and hair styling and highlighting - some very welcome female pampering!

 

Ethiopian sim cards (for your cell phone) are government controlled and it is virtually impossible to get one if you are not a resident of the country! My first tv and telephone were in my room in Addis; they were welcome beacons of modernity. But I will always treasure the moments I stepped back into time, into the reprieve of ancient civilization and mystical Ethiopia!

It was with a little sadness and quite a bit of excitement that I next ventured to South Africa to explore her natural beauty by hiking and camping along her countryside -- but more about that in the next update!