We lost power for 10 min last night around 0200. Deafening silence… pure bliss! There is always noise here; I didn’t truly understand how much until I, once again, experienced silence. There is always an air conditioner, fan, singing, or talking in the background of my daily life here.
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| In Khartoum this is how tradesmen advertise that they are available to work. They place a few tools of their trade by the side of a main road and wait in the shade, further back from the road until they are needed! |
Last week, during class held in a sea container, I was struck by the intensity of the background noises. I was completely unable to concentrate. There was construction outside to the right and out front there was music and signing to celebrate International Women’s Day. The false walls of the container were no match for these sounds, the four competing air conditioners, and forty people.
Suddenly, a construction vehicle pulled up and seemed to continuously back up. Then a cell phone began ringing. It was right after lunch and in the mid 40s outside. The air conditioners were set to +32. Someone began to snore -- that pretty much sums up my week of integrated (civilian and military) training.
I received my team site (TS) initial deployment order. I am headed to Yambio, the capital of Western Equatorial state, in south western Sudan Khartoum to Juba, taking a helicopter from Juba to Maridi, and another from Maridi to Yambio.
For my last weekend in Khartoum
The tour was hosted by a local hotel and was comprised of journalists and aid workers.
The first stop was the National Museum
Then it was off to the boat yard,
followed by the Palace Museum,
a short stop at Mahdi’s tomb, and a ride through Omdurman Souq (market).
For such an old country, the chosen tour sights were surprising and telling.
The highlight of the trip was the Dervish Dances at Al-Nil Tomb. The whirling Dervishes are dressed in bright green and red, a stark contrast to the white robes worn by most Sudanese men.
They chant, dance, and pray to the beat of drums while being surrounded by a circle of chanting men who are also rocking back and forth with their arms throw first up in the air and then back in a trance-like motion.
This is an old Islamic ritual, and it is said that once they are in a trance state their souls communicate with Allah.
Yesterday was a day trip to the pyramids and Temple of Amun
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| Typical housing in a northern Sudanese village. |
On our drive up we passed a few checkpoints but managed to navigate them with no issues.
When we arrived at the pyramids, we were the only people there!
We carefully explored, walking inside and around them, feeling and living the history in their walls.
The endless sand and barrenness of the desert was breathtaking.
A brief camel ride completed our visit to the pyramids. Who knew they could run?
After a quick lunch out the back of our vehicles, we put them into 4x4 and were off.
The loose, dry, deep sand road presented the opportunity for some off road racing and our own personal Northern Sudan safari!
We spotted camels, goats, and donkeys during our trek.
The Temple of Amun
Our guide was an older gentleman who lovingly explained the history and legends behind the engravings on the walls.
Next, we saw a huge gathering of people and animals. Upon closer inspection we found that they were circling a well. They were patiently hoisting dirty water from its depths with the help of some donkeys.
It was quite the site to see!
Luckily they loved cameras; it must be magical to them to “appear” on the camera screen.
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