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21 May 2011

Sudan Update 9

As the rainy season begins, it is increasingly common to see men repairing the roof of their tukuls. Tukuls are round or square shelters made of grass, straw, branches, and twigs, locally produced bricks, mud or clay for the lower walls, mud/dirt floors, and a grass, straw, branch, twig mixture for the roofs.  A few have an added tarp as well, undoubtedly scavenged from a local GO (government organization) or NGO (non-governmental organization) garbage pile. Roof maintenance consists of replacing all roof materials to ensure the most waterproof seal possible. The roofs are constructed on a slopping angle, as they are at home. The dirt around the tukuls quickly floods with the intensity of the rains. It is quite amazing that the earth is also able, at least so far, to quickly absorb the water once the rain stops -- making the dirt pile that we live in once again passable! So far it rains every one - three days, late in the afternoon for between one - six hours at a time …. I will keep you updated if that changes!
16 April 2011 patrol to KOKORA, 4 km from YAMBIO and a 10 minute drive, within the outskirts of YAMBIO and consequently one of the relatively lucky and prosperous communities that we visit. I was the patrol leader and, because of the availability of communication, had called ahead so the Chief was waiting to welcome us. We sat down and had a lovely meeting where we discussed their lack of water and food due to the increase in IDPs (internally displaced people) to the area. The children attend school, though it is located on a main roadway into YAMBIO. Kids of all ages here walk alone or with other kids. It is uncommon to see parents dropping off or picking up their kids from school, as we do at home.  The Chief expressed frustration at the apparent lack of developmental progress for his community and voiced a deep desire for a better future for his people. We tried to share our information and echo a message of hope for the future of all South Sudan , without generating expectations or making any promises. The locals know that we are unable to provide tangible benefits when we visit; that our role is to monitor, collect, and report information to the responsible agencies for their action. It is difficult though, since we discuss their problems, especially in the less stable areas where we are often the only visitors, for them not to express their dissatisfaction and frustration with the status quo. As much as this is upsetting and difficult for us to hear, I believe airing their grievances is a positive step towards propelling their society to a better future -- by forcing improvements and progress because the people will stand for nothing less. The best possible outcome for South Sudan ’s future will only be attained by the will and sheer determination of her people.
21 April 2011 patrol to NANGBIMO, 8km from YAMBIO and a 25 min drive.

The generators went out first thing in the morning: no hot shower
and coffee courtesy

I was driver of vehicle 1 of a 2 vehicle convoy. It was a nice drive through the backcountry on relatively good roads. When we came to the town, we discovered that most of the population had fled the area due to recent LRA (Lord Resistance Army) movement and insecurity.

                                         

The school was still running, but the hospital had been shut down and the most locals were only returning to cultivate their land.


We sat in a brick school room and talked with a few of the local teachers while some students and random adults sat watching us. They urgently requested military and/or police presence in the area as well as food, water, and medicine.

Each boma and payam that we patrol outside of YAMBIO proper presents us with much the same story. It is heart wrenching and raw, and we are left trying desperately to explain the lack of apparent progress to their day to day life and our blue beret mandate. Yet, it is woefully inadequate and leaves us all quite sober at the end of any patrol. The facts are such that South Sudan has come a long way, the CPA has been an effective tool, and relative peace exists between the south and north. Unfortunately, lack of local, small scale development progress and an extreme dependency on aid exasperates the already tired and frustrated locals whose patience has been sorely tried by decades of war.
22 April 2011 patrol to JAMES DIKO, 102 km roundtrip, 6 hours of driving.


It rained for five hours the previous evening, which made the already narrow, challenging road just a bit more fun!


It was an experience (one of many to come) that most would pay for! I was driver of vehicle 2, the lead UNMO vehicle, because we had force protection with us.





The community is quite a way off the beaten track, into LRA country.









Driving in mud is like driving in snow – who knew – I love being Canadian!


It was an exhilarating, yet draining drive to the village.




About 2 km from JAMES DIKO we ran into its inhabitants, who had abandoned their village due to the security threat and were living in sparse, make-shift shelters.







With the coming of the rainy season, they were quite upset and disillusioned. They were also agitated and frustrated with the lack of visible progress to assist them and with the continued precarious security situation. They had no homes, no schools, no crops, no health care, no bore hole, and not enough food or water. They brought a sample of their water to show us; it was black and murky. We attempted to explain how to construct a basic filter using sand, charcoal, and clothes to clean the water. They would not or could not listen to us.
At one point the angry crowd grew silent as the women, who were off behind us (we were encircled by armed men and arrow boys) demanded to speak to me, a fellow woman. It was quite amazing to witness their strength and desire to speak. We quickly went over to the area where they were standing with the children and listened to their concerns. I was surprised and impressed by how angry and determined they were. One teenage mother was particularly vocal and heated; maybe she will make a difference in the future of her people. Anger and frustration with the status quo can be a positive catalyst for change. Impressive also was the fact that these women, in a country where women's voices are generally not heard, were not willing to simply sit by and let their men explain the situation and issues -- a great leap towards empowerment and contribution to the future of their country. They begged us for food, for help, and to talk to the local government and NGOs for them. We are restricted by our mandate to give much. All I had to offer was a bag of suckers, but it was enough to put smiles on their faces and for us to be able to depart safely after over an hour of heated discussions. As I drove away, the men were shouting at me; I smiled and waved and the SPLA National Monitor, who was in the backseat of my vehicle, explained that they were delighted to see a women driving!  ;)


 We had gone to JAMES DIKO on Good Friday.


On the outskirt of YAMBIO we ran into a gathering of three - four thousand people re-enacting the Stations of the Cross. We pulled off the road and jumped on the truck bed of a local truck to observe the spectacle from a better vantage point.


We witnessed an immense sea of people gathered in prayer with scavenged wooden crosses flimsily thrown together and held over their heads.  Many did not even have material to bind or nail their wooden pieces together. I watched one boy drop one side of his cross and his mom patiently pick it up and show him how to hold it properly.


The service was performed quickly and held in the middle of the road, and then the procession was once again off. As they marched they chanted a hauntingly beautiful hymn. It was a very moving experience, and a memorable way to begin a patrol! I had wanted to participate in the Stations of the Cross with the locals, but since I was on patrol and we do not observe holidays, I was unable to do so. This chance encounter made my day as the whole patrol ran into the procession and was compelled to participate in this moving experience.
Easter in YAMBIO. What a lovely experience! Easter week we had many dinner parties and celebrations.




Festivities began with a Latino dinner party, which consisted of fabulous food, music, and dancing.









Who knew you could host a dance party in a sea container on a Wednesday night!



Then Friday night was a Nigerian karaoke party with delicious local delicacies











and hilarious musical entertainment.










Saturday night the UNMOs had our weekly BBQ and Sunday I hosted an interesting Canadian Easter meal.


To round it off, on Wednesday we decorated Easter eggs and had an egg fight! One of the personal benefits of this mission is the opportunity to interact and learn about such a diversity of cultures from my colleagues. 
A German colleague and I attended the local Easter Sunday mass. It was held outdoors, and there were about two – three thousand people present. Everyone brought their own chairs, except us, of course! It was a lovely celebration with chanting and a sermon given in English and the local language. I would like to share some of the beautiful message that was conveyed during the English portion, as I have not yet mastered the local language and did not have a language assistant with me. The priest imparted words of hope and tolerance, peace and reconciliation, forgiveness and understanding, hard work and perseverance for the birth of the South Sudan and its proud people.  The service was broken up by music and chanting every 10 - 15 minutes. The crowd would clap their hands and sway as one to the music. At times women would be so moved by the music that they would utter loud, high pitch cries. It would have been impossible to count the number of children there, and they were all transfixed with the sight of the large German and me! Many of them, as young as two, came over to shake ours hands after the ceremony. It was adorable. Everyone wore their best Sunday clothes, and the site of the young children in little dresses and mini suits was both incredibly cute and completely sad.  I feel truly blessed to have been a part of this ceremony.